My 2019 Everyday Carry (EDC)

On December 9, 2019December 7, 2019 By matthewrbakerIn GearLeave a comment

Everyday carry. EDC. It’s a term used by ex-military folks to describe items carried on a daily basis, and it evokes images of concealed-carry handguns, MOLLE packs, and anything else tactical or tacti-cool.

That said, the term EDC is gaining more prominence among those of us who are not ex-mil and even among those of us who are not particularly tacti-cool. If you think about it, we all have our own EDC, even if we don’t call it that.

Gents, you need only check your pockets. And ladies, you need only look in your purses. Whatever you can pull out is EDC. It’s stuff you carry around with you every day.

Thanks to some good Black Friday deals, I’m upgrading my EDC for 2020, but I wanted to share what I’ve carried on my person for 2019. In fact, not much has changed in my loadout over the past couple years because it’s served me so well.

Keychain

I bought a rather inexpensive carabiner keychain on Amazon many moons ago. It works great for me because I have to carry a lot of keys. It’s not the slimmest thing in my pocket, but it’s not bulky either. I’d prefer something slimmer, but I really can’t do anything about the number of keys I carry, so I’m living with this for now. I do like the ability to quickly clip and unclip my truck keys on the main carabiner, and quickly take off keys as needed.

Multitool

Possibly the most versatile of my EDC items.

Clipped to my keychain is a Leatherman Micra multitool. This little guy is perhaps the most-useful item I carry on my person every day. He’s come in handy hundreds of times, from opening packages to tightening screws to trimming and filing my fingernails. I’ve even used the tweezers to remove bee stingers.

I received my first Micra for Christmas over a decade ago, and carried it everywhere I could. I lost it sometime during college and missed it so much that I bought another one within a week.

There’s a lot to like about the Micra, but a few features I think are under-appreciated are the engraved ruler (Imperial and international units) on the frame and the fingernail file. No, it’s not a Swiss Army knife, but it’s got what I need. And, assuming I don’t lose it, I know it’ll last me a good, long time.

Wallet

I got tired of cheap leather or faux leather wallets falling apart every couple years, so I upgraded to this one from Flowfold several years ago. It’s made out of sailcloth, which means it’s durable and water-resistant. As a testament to its design, it looks the same today as it did the day I bought it, aside from the creases earned during its natural life. It even floats! (No, I have not tested that!)

It’s not the most stylish thing out there, but it’s arguably one of the most functional. I can stuff more than a dozen credit cards into it (and no, I don’t have a dozen credit cards either) and a load of bills, and it keeps asking for more. I try to keep it slim though, because it fits better in my pants. It also has RFID protection, which helps keep my cards safe from fraud. Never a bad thing.

PocketMonkey

You’ve heard of putting a tiger in your tank? Well, now you can put a monkey in your pocket.

This is a new addition to my EDC, and one I haven’t had to use yet. I bought a PocketMonkey for my dad for his birthday, and didn’t realize the order came with a second one. So, I did what any reasonable man would do and slipped the second one into my wallet.

This little gadget is the size of a credit card but can do a lot. It’ll open bottles, tighten screws and bolts, and even help you wind your earbuds. You can combine it with a credit card to make a makeshift phone stand (though in my experience, use a card you don’t mind getting scratched up).

Funny story: I forgot this was in my wallet when I went to Europe this year, and it made it through airport security in America, the EU, and Britain (the ultra-secure London Heathrow airport) without so much as a batted eyelash. While it is actually TSA-compliant, I don’t know if I’d try my luck again. But that’s information to keep in your back pocket (pun intended).

Phone

It may not be the newest or most attractive thing out there, but it’s tough and it works. Complete with finger smudges on the screen!

Okay, yeah, we all carry phones, so this one’s mostly a given. But I have to extol my LG Escape 3 for being such a trooper for the three years I’ve owned it.

Despite its storage being almost full, it’s still snappy and reliable and it doesn’t even feel like it’s aged. It’s endured temperatures as high as 110° F and as low as -8° F and been with me everywhere from airplanes to camping trips. I don’t see any reason to upgrade until it gives up!

My philosophy on a lot of things, especially on technology, and on phone-buying in particular, is that it’s best to buy something that’s going to last you for a long time. I know that sounds strange given that I was an IT troubleshooter in a former life and that I’ve written a book about computers, but hear me out.

Companies like Apple plan obsolescence into their phones so that you’re forced to buy a new one every few years. That’s how they make money. Plus, they market things as being “new” and “updated” (they are to an extent)—but that doesn’t mean that your phone is automatically old and outmoded.

Buy a good phone, take care of it (meaning don’t drop it in the toilet), and it should last you a long time. Don’t hop on the “latest apps and features” bandwagon and you’ll save yourself a lot of money and needless stress.

Didn’t mean to step on my soapbox, but I felt like that was an appropriate place to air my opinion. Onwards!

Knife

Okay, now we’re finally getting to something that’s real EDC, right? Knives!

My EDC knife of choice has been something with a glass-breaker and a seatbelt cutter, simply because I live in a more urban environment and I’m more likely to need to cut a seatbelt than I am a piece of rope. I like that such a knife enables me to rescue myself or someone else from a car wreck, though hopefully I’ll never have to.

I started the year with an M-Tech knife that my dad gave me for Christmas a few years ago, but the clip broke off and the spring mechanism wore out. I replaced it with the closest thing I could find at The Knife Shoppe, which was a Smith & Wesson 1st Response. It looks and feels solid, and I like the grippy scales. It’s sharp enough for my needs—the toughest thing I do with it is cut apart cardboard boxes before recycling them. And I really like the thumbscrew for opening the blade.

I used to carry this knife in my back pocket, which is where most Texans carry their blades of choice. Next year, I’m planning to keep this one exclusively in my vehicle as a rescue knife and carry something else on my person. Stay tuned….

Watch

I’m amazed that Casio can make G-Shocks as tough as they are at the prices they sell them.

This year, I started a (small) watch collection and I can see how easy it is to spend a lot of money on timepieces. As mentioned, I’m all about buying for life, and I’d rather buy quality than quantity, so my collection will remain a small one of superb pieces.

In an era of smartwatches, there is still no replacement for a quality wristwatch. While the smartwatch you’re wearing will be obsolete in a couple years (meaning you’ll have to buy another one), a well-made wristwatch can last you a lifetime. And I don’t think even the most stylish smartwatch can rival the elegance of an analog timepiece.

My go-to, everyday watch is my G-Shock GA1000 Gravitymaster Twin Sensor. (I just call it my G-Shock!) I bought it last year for a pittance and it’s been nothing but tough and timely. I could probably write a whole essay about how much I like my G-Shock, but instead of boring you, I’ll just summarize the main points:

Analog and digital timekeeping (meaning it has hour, minute, and second hands as well as a digital display)
World-time mode for tracking time in other time zones
Chronograph, timer, and alarm functions
Long-lasting lume (I can read it in pitch black eight hours after light exposure)
Built-in digital compass and temperature sensor (very handy when outdoors)
Tough as nails and reliable as heck
Antimicrobial and comfortable watch strap
Water-resistant up to 20 bars (200 meters)

It’s big, almost too big for my smallish wrist, but I wouldn’t change anything about it. I dig the overall look, especially the aviation-inspired design of the mode dial.

Maybe someday I’ll acquire a G-Shock with an altimeter, if only for the cool factor of having an altimeter and barometer strapped to my wrist. Also, this model requires a battery change every two or three years depending on usage, while others are solar-powered. As with most things, you pay more to get more, but I’m very happy with my G-Shock and I don’t know anyone who has ever been unhappy with theirs.

Backpack

Still in great condition five years later, but you can see it’s been around the block a few times.

I’ve been carrying this SwissGear backpack for over five years and it’s a tank. I know I’ve had to carry fifty-plus pounds of books and gear around during college, and this bag didn’t complain in the slightest. The stitching is rock-solid all around, especially on the straps. The zippers may require coercion when the bag is stuffed, but they don’t break!

Given, there are some things I don’t like about it: When loaded up, it looks bulky and can cause achy shoulders. (I wish it at least had a chest strap, if not a waist strap, to place the weight on the back rather than the shoulders.) It’s also not the most stylish backpack out there. But it holds a lot, keeps stuff dry, and shows very few signs of wear after I’ve worn it all over the place.

Due to changing needs (I’m no longer schlepping textbooks around campus), next year I’m switching to a messenger bag for EDC, so I’m retiring this backpack from active duty. That said, I’m still keeping it for that odd occasion that I need (or prefer) a rugged and reliable backpack.

Kindle

You can see I’ve got A.J. Baime’s *Go Like Hell* queued up. After seeing *Ford V Ferrari*, it’s worth a second read.

I never know when I might have some down time to dive into a book. Sure, I could read on my phone or carry a tablet for greater versatility, but I prefer the e-ink display of my Kindle Paperwhite. It’s more like a real book and much easier on my eyes—not to mention that it won’t distract me with notifications or tempt me to spend my time surfing the Web.

My Kindle Paperwhite has 4 GB of storage, which I’ve heard equates to somewhere around one-thousand books. It has a backlit touchscreen for reading in the dark, though I find the backlight hard on my eyes sometimes. My first Kindle didn’t have a touchscreen—buttons only—and it could be a pain to navigate, so I think the touchscreen on this one is one of this model’s greatest features. I like that I can use my finger to highlight words to get immediate definitions; it’s also great for books like War and Peace where the language changes a lot, because you can highlight words and phrases for translation.

I just have a relatively inexpensive faux leather case for my Kindle. There are fancier ones, yes, but this one provides adequate protection. I’m also unwilling to pay a lot for a case for something that I may upgrade a few years down the road.

I’ve loaded my Kindle with a small library of books, so I never worry about being bored anymore. I don’t know that I’ll ever get through them all, but to quote The Sun Also Rises, isn’t it pretty to think so?

Book

He’ll make you an offer you can’t refuse.

Even though I have a veritable library on my Kindle, I always try to have a real, physical book with me—a paperback, if possible. There will never be a replacement for reading words on paper and flipping pages.

The kind of book I carry varies from week to week. One week it might be a work of fiction; the next it might be history or philosophy. I do own several books, but more often than not I patronize the local library for books to tote around. I check out a book, and if I like what I read, I may then buy it—shelving space permitting.

Lunch bag

Fortunately, the stains are on the backside!

I’ve used this bag well for several years now, at least since I started college. My mom bought it for me from The Container Store way back when. It fits decently inside my SwissGear backpack and keeps food cold. What more could you want from a lunch bag?

Unfortunately, this bag has some irremovable stains, so I’m also going to retire it from active duty at the end of the year. Also, since I’m upgrading my EDC pack to a messenger bag, I’m planning to upgrading my lunch bag/pail. Stay tuned on this one, too.

Earbuds

My brother’s old EarPods are my current pair of ‘phones.

Did you know that wired earbuds are old-fashioned now? No? Well, apparently they are. Wireless rechargeable earbuds are where it’s at.

I don’t have a beef with wireless, but I like the convenience of a pair with wires. And my phone still has the standard 1/8″ (3.5 mm) audio jack (unlike the new iPhones!), so it makes sense to keep using them. These used to be my brother’s, but he gave them to me when he upgraded (because his phone is one of the new iPhones that doesn’t have the audio jack!).

I don’t plug in and tune out much, but when I do, I use these. They sound good; they’re neither too trebly nor too bassy. And they have a built-in microphone for taking calls, a feature I don’t use very much but find convenient nevertheless.

I grew up listening to music cranked through my dad’s old Technics hi-fi stereo, and I’m convinced that the only real way to listen to music is through this kind of system, because you don’t just hear it—you also feel it in your body. But since it’s impractical to carry a big stereo around and impolite to blast your music for all to hear, these earbuds do the trick.

Pens

What’s more embarrassing than needing to write something down but not having a pen? (Yes, lots of things, but this is pretty bad, too.)

I’ll admit that I don’t carry a pen on my person, so I don’t always have one readily available. The exception is that sometimes, when I’m wearing a jacket, I have a pen in one of the pockets. But I always have a writing utensil in my bag.

I’d say most of the pens in my arsenal fall into the category of finders-keepers, rescued from uncertain fates on classroom floors and in lecture halls. I’m not particularly attached to any of them, but none of them are bad pens, either. They’re standard fare, they get the job done, and I won’t be sad if I loan one to somebody and they don’t give it back.

To this point I’ve not carried any special or tactical pens. I have a $10 tactical pen that looks deadly but doesn’t write worth a flip—so I don’t carry it. A lot of people swear by Fisher space pens, so that may be something I acquire next year.

First Aid

A couple years ago, I took a Red Cross first-aid class because I wanted to learn the basics of first aid and CPR. After the class, I decided to buy a mini first aid kit and a CPR breathing barrier—better to have them and not need them than to need them and not have them. Thankfully, I’ve not needed to use either so far. They’re both lightweight and compact enough to carry around and almost, but not quite, forget about.

Gideon’s Bible

Did you know they could make Bibles this small? Well, they do have to take out most of the Old Testament, but this is perfect for sharing God’s Word with someone.

I’ve got Bibles on my phone and my Kindle, but this one doesn’t need batteries.

For those that don’t know, the Gideons are an organization composed of Christian men who distribute Bibles free of charge. They’re the ones who place Bibles in hotel room drawers. They hand out these small orange Bibles at public schools (at least in my state, where it’s not a crime or politically incorrect to do so), and that’s where I acquired this one.

I carry it for two reasons: One, to read in the event that I can’t use or don’t have my phone or Kindle; and two, to give to someone else who needs it more than I do. And should I give it away, I’ll just acquire another one for the same two reasons.

Planner

I’m big on having to-do lists and keeping track of appointments. I do place reminders in my phone calendar, but I prefer a planner for ease of use. And, like the Gideon’s Bible, this doesn’t run on batteries.

If I have something I need to do on a specific day, I’ll write it down in my planner. Every night before bed, I’ll go over the next day’s to-dos and objectives, and make note of anything I didn’t get done that current day. Rarely do I get everything done in one day, so I also aim to take care of the “leftovers” first on the next day.

I bought this planner for $1.99 at my local Half Price Books. In the past, I’ve used 5″ x 8″ planners but I thought I’d try this smaller format this year. It’s okay, but I like having more space to write and take notes, so next year I’m going back to a larger one.

Flashlight

This Nitecore P12 is about 5.5″ long and 1″ in diameter.

I have two very bright, tactical flashlights. The first is a Nitecore P12 that is longer and looks more like something a law enforcement officer would carry. The second is a less-menacing Soonfire (Chinese knock-off of Surefire) that I picked up before my trip to Europe. Each is good in its own right, and both have a max output of 1000 lumens.

I like the Nitecore because it’s big and bright. It feels good to hold, with enough weight to have substance but not so much that it’s heavy. It has four brightness settings and is powered by two rechargeable batteries. My first one disappeared somewhere and has likely (hopefully) been found by a happy new owner. I bought a second because I like the design so much.

This Soonfire E11 is 4.3″ long and 1″ in diameter, just a wee bit shorter than the Nitecore.

The Soonfire has a different set of uses and features. It’s shorter than the Nitecore and is a gunmetal gray rather than a tactical black. It has five brightness settings plus two strobe modes. I bought it specifically for traveling, and it’s made it through American, British, and European airport security with no problems. It’s also rechargeable via USB, which means I can use the same cable to charge my phone, tablet, and this flashlight. That’s brilliant (pun maybe intended).

Which one I carry depends on what I’m doing that day. Normally I’ll carry the Nitecore simply because it’s what I’m used to. But the Soonfire is easier to pocket and takes up less space in a bag, so I may reach for it when I need to carry it in my pants pocket rather than a bag.

Computer Glasses

These glasses have saved my eyes. No kidding. Gunnar didn’t even pay me to write that.

A new addition for this year, I bought these glasses from Gunnar, a company that specializes in eyewear for computer users and gamers. I’ve always had problems with bright light and especially with light from monitors and TVs. My optometrist didn’t think that these would do me any good, but let me tell you that my experience has proven otherwise.

I tried using blue-light filters on my computers, but they only helped a bit. I’ve also followed the 20-20-20 rule: “Every twenty minutes that you’re in front of a monitor, take twenty seconds to look at something that’s twenty feet away.” That also helped, but didn’t solve the problem.

I figured there wasn’t much to lose, so I ordered a pair of prescription Gunnars with the amber lens tint. On the first full day I used them, I noticed an immediate difference. No eye strain, no dry eyes, no headaches. No more staying off the computer after work because I simply couldn’t stand looking at a screen anymore. No more avoiding watching TV with my family.

These are the real deal, and you can quote me. I’m not even paid to write this; I’m just amazed and thankful that someone designed this product. They are now an essential and permanent part of my EDC.

And that’s it! It seems like a lot when it’s written out, but I’m so used to carrying it around every day that I don’t even think about it—that is, until I create a list like this and start revising my loadout.

What about you? What’s an indispensable part of your EDC? Do you think I should add anything to my list?

The Ultimate Guide to Applying for Jobs Online

On August 19, 2019August 20, 2019 By matthewrbakerIn Tech Tips2 Comments

A couple years ago, as I wrapped up my undergraduate degree, I started applying for jobs with local companies. I quickly realized that many of the jobs I was interested in required different résumés, some required cover letters, and nearly all had a unique application process. Soon I found myself with a dozen copies of my résumé, a half-dozen cover letters, and a version control nightmare on my hands.

Thankfully, it doesn’t have to be this way for you! Applying for a job can be stressful enough as it is, right? I went through the fire and learned the lessons, so I’ll share the top tips I have for submitting job applications to any company.

First, Get Organized

If you’re applying for a lot of jobs and have a folder with different versions of your résumé and various cover letters, it’s going to be hard to keep track of which is which. That’s why the first thing you need to do is to create a folder hierarchy.

I suggest creating a folder in your Documents folder titled “Job Applications” or something similar. Pick a title that you’ll remember best—one you won’t have to go hunting for.

Within that folder, create a subfolder for each company you’re applying at. For example, you might have a folder titled “Apple” and one titled “Google”. (Shoot for the moon, right?)

Finally, within each company folder, create yet another folder for each job you’re applying for at the company. You could have “UX Developer” and “Test Engineer” within the “Google” folder.

Within each job folder is where you’ll store the résumé, cover letter, and any other documents or information you will submit in the application. This hierarchical structure makes it easy to navigate to the exact documents you need when editing or uploading. You don’t want to upload your Apple cover letter to your Google job application—that would not be too good.

Get Your Documents in Order

Once you have your folder hierarchy created, you can start working on your documents. If you already have a résumé, CV, or cover letter, copy it into the specific job folder and get to work. If not, start working on a new file and make sure to save it in the folder for the specific job you’re applying for.

When you save a file, your computer automatically updates the date information for the file. This makes it easy to sort by date and see when you last edited the file—which is very handy if you have multiple copies of the same file, or different versions.

To make it even easier to identify, I suggest appending the date information to the end of the filename, like this: “Matthew_Baker_Resume_08-19-19.docx”. When you make updates to the file, update the filename too.

Since I mentioned filenames, I’ll give you my tips on how to name your files. First, name your file what you want the recipient to see when he or she downloads it. This is pretty obvious—but make the filenames look as professional as the documents themselves do. To me, and probably to most hiring managers, a filename capitalized like a title looks more professional than all lowercase (“Matthew Baker Resume” vs. “matthew baker resume”).

Second, keep it simple. Don’t use “Matthew Baker Quality Engineer Associate Resume”. That’s overkill. The hiring manager knows which job you’re applying for, and your résumé should reflect that. Plus, you’ve created a folder hierarchy, so you don’t have to be this specific with the filename because the file itself sits inside the job folder.

Third, I recommend using underscores instead of spaces. Some computer systems don’t play well with filenames that have spaces in them. This is becoming less and less common, but since this is a job you’re applying for, I suggest you play it safe. Use “Matthew_Baker_Resume” instead of “Matthew Baker Resume”.

Whether you’re using Microsoft Word, Apple Pages, Google Docs, or another word processor to create your documents, you need to submit final copies in PDF format. I cannot emphasize this enough. A PDF (Portable Document Format) file preserves all your formatting so that what the recipient sees is 99.99% guaranteed to match what you see.

Generating a PDF file is easy. All you need to do is click the File button in your word processor’s menu and look for an option like “Save As…”, “Export”, or “Export to PDF”. Double-check that the file will be in the .pdf format. If you mess up, that’s fine. Just go through the steps again and make sure you’ve selected the right format. If you need help, do a Google search for “How to export a PDF file in [your word processor]”.

If you submit a Word document or other a file in another word processor file format, there’s no guarantee that the recipient will see what you do. I’ve opened Word documents that probably looked great on the creator’s screen but looked hideous on mine: messed-up formatting, missing fonts, and more. Sometimes, the recipient may not even be able to open the file format you send!

Hopefully I’ve driven this point home. Even if the company’s job submittal tool accepts files in formats like .doc and .docx, send a PDF (.pdf). It comes across as more professional (to me, sending a Word document is like sending a draft), and you can rest assured that what the hiring manager sees is what you saw when you created it.

Submitting All the Stuff

All right, you’ve got your folders in order, and your files ready to go! Now all that’s left is to submit all the documents and turn in that application!

Before starting the online application, make sure you have all the information you need in order to complete it in one sitting. Many companies offer the ability for you to save an application in process, but in my experience this doesn’t always work. If it’s an incredibly long and thorough application, you may have no choice but to save your work and come back later.

Otherwise, if you have all the information on-hand, you can knock the application out in one sitting and save yourself the hassle of stopping to get more information, throw together another document, and come back later to wrap up. I realize not every company lists what they expect you to submit up-front, and that’s why this isn’t a hard-and-fast rule. It just makes life easier if you can do it this way.

If the company has any browser requirements or recommendations for submitting online, follow them! If you use the wrong browser, it might crash mid-application and then you might have to start all over! Just download the right browser and do it the right way—at least then you’ll have reason to complain to the company’s IT department if something goes haywire.

If the company doesn’t list browser recommendations, go with Mozilla Firefox. In my experience, it’s the best all-around browser, and the large majority of sites work well with it.

You may also have to enable pop-ups in your browser when completing the application. If the company doesn’t provide instructions on how to do this, do a Google search for “How to enable pop-ups in [your browser]”. If possible, consult the browser’s official website.

Once you’ve got all your information together and you’ve got the right browser loaded up, go ahead and breeze through the application! Double-check all information you input into forms before you advance to the next page. Make sure you upload your résumé or CV in the correct place. (Don’t upload your résumé as your cover letter, or vice versa!)

If possible, at the end of the application, do a final check that all information you entered and uploaded is correct. Then fire that application off, sit back, and wait for that interview!

Bonus: General Job-Application Tips

Overdelivering (some might say overachieving) is something I pride myself on. If you’re reading this post because you need to apply for a job online, great. But why not stick around a bit longer for some general tips for job applications and interviews?

I’ve picked up a lot of tips along the way, sifted through them, and separated the wheat from the chaff. Here are some of the best ones.

For your résumé or CV:

Use bullet points to highlight your talents, responsibilities, etc.
For less-experienced applicants, stick to one page
For applicants with 10+ years of experience and/or lots of past jobs, two pages is fine
Use numbers when possible (e.g., “Supported 50 clients…”)

For your cover letter:

Almost always stick to one page
Less is more—talk about important stuff, but save some things for your interview
Keep sentences short; this makes them easier to understand
Keep paragraphs short; this makes them easier to read
Address the letter to the hiring manager, if you know his or her name
Include the job title and requisition number at the top of the page

For all documents:

Use consistent design/formatting across documents (e.g. header, font choice, font size)
Use two fonts maximum
If using two fonts, opt for a sans-serif font for headers and a serif font for the main text body (e.g., pair Arial with Times New Roman)
Use strong, action verbs (e.g., managed, performed, developed)
Avoid weaker verbs (e.g., helped, assisted, aided)—be assertive and take credit for your accomplishments!
Avoid passive voice (e.g., don’t use “Changes were made…”; use “I made changes…”)
Use parallelism in writing (e.g., “I woke up, got out of bed, and dragged a comb across my head.” All the verbs are in the simple past tense. Bonus points if you catch the reference.)

For interviews (these tips came from a presentation I gave to high-school students interviewing for internships):

When asked a question, don’t be afraid to ask for a minute to think before answering
- A good interviewer will realize that behavioral and experiential questions require thoughtSilence can be awkward, but only if you let it beA more thoughtful answer is a better answer!
Smile!
- Whether in person or over the phone, smiling will reflect in your toneSmiling communicates interest and eagerness to the interviewer
Speak at a “Goldilocks” speed
- Not too fast, not too slow, but just rightEnunciate your wordsThis prevents the interviewer from asking you to repeat yourselfIt also showcases your speaking skills!
Eliminate filler words
- Um, uh, well, like, you know, I mean, okay, so, actually, basically
- This makes you sound smarter and appear more thoughtful!
Maintain eye contact with your interviewer
- Don’t look away the whole time
- Don’t stare!
- This establishes rapport
In a face-to-face interview, mirror your interviewer’s posture
- This establishes rapport
When the interviewer asks if you have any questions, ask questions!
- Be prepared with two or three questions ready to ask
- Ask questions that you think of during the interview
- Asking questions shows interest in the company and the position

Conclusion

That’s a lot of info, right? Hopefully you find it useful, because applying for a job doesn’t have to be stressful or time-consuming. In fact, if you get your ducks in a row, you can easily knock out a handful of applications in an hour!

As always, thanks for reading. If you have any comments or suggestions, feel free to drop me a note below. And if you have any additional tips you think your fellow readers would benefit from, please feel free to share in the comments!

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What if I told you that you could quickly and easily learn how your computer or smartphone works?

What if I told you that troubleshooting your technology can be easy and painless?

Well, now I’m telling you! My book How Computers Work and What to Do When They Don’t explains, in everyday English, how your computer operates and what you can do when it’s not operating the way you want it to.

It teaches you about the basic components without getting too technical, so you can become more computer-literate.

It walks you through simple steps to fixing common computer problems, so you can get back to using your computer instead of struggling with it.

It explains how to easily solve issues such as sluggish performance and virus infections, so you can keep your computer running smoothly—instead of running out to buy a new one.

And… it includes over 30 full-color pictures, so you can actually see what I’m talking about.

I’ve spent a great majority of my life solving computer problems (and I’m only in my twenties!), and I studied IT in college partly for this reason. I’ve helped kids, seniors, and everyone in between… and now I want to help you.

This book contains all the “secrets” I use to solve computer problems… secrets that everyone can use, including you.

Imagine feeling confident that you can solve your own tech problems without calling your tech-savvy friend, child, or grandchild. Imagine quickly feeling at home with software or apps you’ve never used before.

With How Computers Work and What to Do When They Don’t, you will!

How Computers Work and What to Do When They Don’t is available on Amazon in all regions for Kindle and in paperback. Why not pick up a copy today and start becoming comfortable with computers?

Get Your Copy!

P.S. If you opt for the paperback version, you can also get the Kindle version for only $0.99 more and read wherever you go on your smartphone, tablet, or Kindle e-reader. Also, be sure to sign up for my email list to receive free bonus content to supplement the book.

How to Reset a PC Without Wiping Windows

On July 15, 2019July 17, 2019 By matthewrbakerIn Tech Tips2 Comments

Or should we call it Windows-washing? (Ba-dum, tish!)

I’ll be here all night, folks.

Anyway, a very good friend of mine approached me about cleaning the data off his old PC. He wanted to give it to his sister, but didn’t want a complete Windows reset because he wanted her to have the Microsoft Office products already installed.

This is something I’ve done a few times for people, so I figure it would make a good tutorial. It appears there’s a lot of folks (more than I thought) who want to clean up an old(er) PC without completely wiping and reinstalling Windows.

Note to Mac users: This article doesn’t cover anything Mac-related, but many of the principles are still the same. I’ll probably write something similar for you in the near future.

Anyway, in cleaning data off an old PC that you want to give (or sell) to someone, there are seven basic steps that I follow, and that I will explain in this article.

Remove any cloud backup software.
Deauthorize accounts from software/the computer.
Uninstall all unnecessary programs.
Delete all unwanted files.
Clear browsing history, favorites, etc.
Clean up leftover files and the registry.
Change the login information.

Let’s dive in, shall we?

1. Remove any cloud backup software.

The reason you want to do this step first is simple: If you start deleting files before you’ve deleted the software that backs them up, there’s a very high chance you’ll delete those files from the cloud. That means they’ll be deleted from all your other synced devices. Not good!

Uninstall programs from this section of the Control Panel.

To uninstall cloud backup software such as Dropbox, iCloud, or Google Drive, do the following:

Click on the Start button.
Start typing “control panel” in the search bar and select Control Panel from the Start menu when it appears.
Click on “Uninstall a program” under the Programs header of Control Panel.
Find the cloud backup software in the list of programs, left-click to select it, and then click the “Uninstall” button on the bar along the top of the program list.
Follow any instructions that the software uninstaller gives you.

Easy enough, right?

2. Deauthorize accounts from software/the computer.

If you have any programs that are licensed (i.e., you pay to use) or require you to have an account to work properly, you’ll want to sign yourself out. If necessary, deauthorize the computer from your account settings.

What does this mean? Well, put simply, if you’re using iTunes and you don’t want your PC’s new owner to be able to buy songs and movies, you’ll need to deauthorize iTunes on your PC and then log out of your account.

The same is true for software such as Spotify, Kindle, and Microsoft Office. The steps vary for each program, and if you’re having trouble, a quick Google search should help.

In general, you’ll want to click through the menu options on the top bar of the program (such as File, Account, etc.) and look for options to deauthorize or log off. You might also find these settings under “Preferences” or “Settings” in certain programs.

To deauthorize a device on Amazon, for example, you have to log into your account, go to "Your Content and Devices" (under the "Your Account & Lists" menu at the top-right of every page), and then select the device you want to deauthorize from the Actions column. — To deauthorize a device on Amazon, for example, you have to log into your account, go to “Your Content and Devices” (under the “Your Account & Lists” menu at the top-right of every page), and then select the device you want to deauthorize from the Actions column.

In some cases, you may have to log in to the software website in order to deauthorize the computer. This is true for Kindle, which requires you to deauthorize the computer from Amazon’s “Your Content and Devices” dashboard.

Once this part’s done, we get to start cleaning house!

3. Uninstall all unnecessary programs.

Let’s revisit our buddy Control Panel from Step 1. At this point in the process, we’ve already uninstalled the cloud backup software. Now, we need to uninstall everything else that your PC’s new owner doesn’t want or need.

Use the same steps as before: Select the program from the list, left-click to select it, and then click on the “Uninstall” button. Follow any directions in the program uninstaller, and you should be good to go.

Here’s a big rule of thumb: Don’t uninstall anything that you’re uncertain of! When in doubt, leave it out!

However, with some discernment, you can safely clean up all the unneeded or unwanted programs without affecting anything mission-critical. Here are some more guidelines to follow:

Don’t delete anything that lists “Microsoft” or “Microsoft Windows” as the Publisher.
Don’t delete anything that lists the PC manufacturer (e.g., Dell, HP, ASUS) as the Publisher.
Don’t delete anything that’s driver-related. These are a bit harder to define, but in general, anything related to mouse, sound, or graphics should be left alone.

I know I wrote “When in doubt, leave it out!” just a few paragraphs ago. That said, the best thing to do would be to do a Google search for the program name and find out whether it’s something you should keep or not. You should learn enough about it from the first few Google results.

Keep your work gloves on, because once you’ve trashed the programs, it’s time to recycle.

4. Delete all unwanted files.

This part is probably the easiest. Select files and delete!

Wait! Before you get started, make absolutely sure there’s nothing that you need to back up first! And then, make sure there’s nothing you want your PC’s new owner to have!

My book How Computers Work and What to Do When They Don’t explains more about how to back files up, so I won’t cover it in-depth here. You will want to store the files on some external medium, such as a USB flash drive or an external hard drive, and then transfer those files over to another computer.

I suggest you start by cleaning up the Desktop. Delete all files there by right-clicking them and selecting the option to “Delete”. Then, when prompted, you will want to click “Yes” to send those files to the Recycle Bin.

Once the Desktop is clear, move any files you want the PC’s new owner to have onto the Desktop. This will keep them out of the way when you start indiscriminately deleting all the other files in sight.

To delete a lot of files at once, go into a folder (like Documents), press Ctrl+A on your keyboard to select all the files, right-click on one of the selected files (all the other ones should remain selected), and then “Delete”. Do this for every main folder on the computer (e.g., Documents, Pictures, Music, Video). Leave no stone unturned or folder unchecked!

When deleting a lot of data, you may be told that it won’t fit in the Recycle Bin. That’s okay; delete it anyway! Assuming you don’t need to back it up (or you already have), just send those files directly to the shredder.

Do your part to help the environment (well, not really) by emptying the Recycle Bin.

Once you’re done deleting, you’ll want to empty any files still left in the Recycle Bin. On the Desktop, right-click on the Recycle Bin and select the option to “Empty Recycle Bin”. At this point, the files are essentially gone, gone, gone.

Except, maybe not! If your computer has a traditional platter hard disk, Windows has merely deleted the references to the files on the hard drive. What this means is that someone could recover the files on the disk if they wanted to. It’s probably not a big deal if all you had were vacation pictures, but if you had important financial documents, well, that’s another story.

How do you know if your computer has a platter hard disk or a solid-state drive (SSD)? Simple.

Open the Start menu, then start typing “optimize” until the option titled “Defragment and optimize your drives” appears on the menu. Select it.

The Optimize Drives utility that appears on-screen will list any and all storage disks on your PC. If the primary disk (usually C:) is listed as “Hard disk drive”, then you have a traditional hard disk. If it’s listed as “Solid state drive”, then you have a speedy new SSD, in which case your files are already gone.

If you have a hard disk drive and need to scrub the drive clean, hang on for just a minute. We’ll cover how to do that in Step 6. But first, Step 5.

5. Clear browsing history, favorites/bookmarks, etc.

Just like you don’t want your PC’s new owner to see all your personal files, you probably don’t want them to see all your Internet activity, either. Cleaning your browsers up isn’t difficult, but can be a little tricky.

If you’re logged in to your browser(s), the first thing you’ll want to do is sign out for good. This varies from browser to browser, and providing a how-to for every browser is beyond the scope of this article, so Google is your friend if you need specific instructions.

Next, go into the browser’s settings and delete all history, cookies, and cache items from all time. Again, this process is different on each browser, so ask Google if you need assistance.

Once that’s done, you’ll probably want to clean up your favorites or bookmarks. You’ll probably need to do this part manually by opening up the list of bookmarks, right-clicking each one, and then selecting “Delete” (or similar).

On Firefox, you can delete bookmarks en masse by clicking on the Bookmarks menu item, then “Show All Bookmarks”, and finally selecting all the bookmarks with Ctrl+A and right-clicking to delete. This saves a ton of time.

Once that’s done, your browser should be squeaky clean—but we’re going to do one final thing to make sure you didn’t miss any spots.

6. Clean up leftover files and the registry.

To this point in the walkthrough, I haven’t had you use any third-party software to clean up the PC. Now, though, we’re going to have to in order to make sure we’ve covered all our bases.

Download and install the free version of CCleaner. (Instructions are on the website.) If you’re prompted to install Avast! Antivirus when installing CCleaner, I advise against it if you already have an antivirus on your PC—and if you don’t, it probably wouldn’t hurt to install it.

The CCleaner "Custom Clean" screen. Check all the boxes on the left in both the Windows tab and the Applications tab. Don't select "Wipe Free Space" unless you know for sure you have a hard-disk drive. — The CCleaner “Custom Clean” screen. Check all the boxes on the left in both the Windows tab and the Applications tab. Don’t select “Wipe Free Space” unless you know for sure you have a hard-disk drive.

With CCleaner open, you’ll want to select the option to do a Custom Clean. Go ahead and check all the boxes in the left pane, and then click over to the Applications tab to check all the boxes in that list as well.

If you determined that your PC has a hard-disk drive in Step 4, you’ll want to make sure you check the box to Wipe Free Space. This will greatly increase the time it takes for CCleaner to run, but it will ensure that your files are wiped from the drive.

Go ahead and click the “Analyze” button. CCleaner will scan the drive and report back with the files it intends to delete. Once it does, click “Run Cleaner” and sit back while CCleaner gets rid of the gunk.

Make sure to save a backup of the registry just in case. I've used CCleaner to clean up the registry for years and never had to restore it from a backup. But you just never know... — Make sure to save a backup of the registry just in case. I’ve used CCleaner to clean up the registry for years and never had to restore it from a backup. But you just never know…

Once the cleaning is complete, you’ll want to run the registry cleaner. Click on the “Registry” button on the left side of the window, ensure all the boxes are ticked, and then click “Scan for Issues”. After it scans, click “Fix selected Issues…”, click “Yes” back up the registry, save the backup to your Documents folder, and then “Fix All Selected Issues”.

Et voilà! Now we’re almost done. You can keep CCleaner installed for the next owner, if you’d like. (It’s a good tool to have on-hand and run often, as I explain in my book.) If you’d rather get rid of it so the new owner has a completely clean slate, refer back to Step 3 to uninstall it from the Control Panel.

7. Change the login information.

Finally, you probably want to change the username and password for the computer. We saved the easiest part for last, so keep your chin up! We’re almost done! You can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

Go back to the Control Panel and click on the option to “Add or remove user accounts” under the User Accounts and Family Safety header. Make sure that you’re the administrator (main user), else you may not be able to do this step.

Like I said, this part is very easy. Change the account name and then create a password. You can even change the picture if you'd like. — Like I said, this part is very easy. Change the account name and then create a password. You can even change the picture if you’d like.

This part really is easy. On the account in question (which is probably yours, if it’s the main account), click on “Change the account name” to enter the new account name. Once that’s done, click on “Create a password” to enter a new password.

Wow, that was easy, wasn’t it?

If there are any other accounts, you’ll probably want to go ahead and delete them. I suggest you log into those accounts first, though, and make sure that there are no files within that need to be backed up or deleted.

Otherwise, you’re done!

In conclusion

You’ve now restored your computer to a near-new state without having to completely wipe the drive and reinstall Windows. Give yourself a pat on the back!

There are a few final things you may want to do to the PC, depending on who’s going to be the proud new owner:

Forget your wifi settings (settings vary from Windows 7 to Windows 10)
Change the desktop background (especially if it’s personal, like a family portrait)
Change the screensaver, if there is one (same as above)

When you hand off the computer to its new owner, the last thing I’ll advise you to do is make sure that you also hand off all necessary peripherals: power adapters, mice, keyboards, and the like. The last thing you want to do is give someone a computer and then they can’t charge it because you forgot the power adapter!

If you found these steps helpful, let me know. Feel free to bookmark this walkthrough for future reference. And please share this with anyone you know who needs them!

And, if you have any questions, or you think I left something out, go ahead and drop me a line in the comments below!

Until next time… make it an awesome week.